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Travels with George and Marta

Journeys in the Botanical World

Travels with George and Marta
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Photohunt: Lick

Travels with George and Marta Posted on January 2, 2010 by MartaJanuary 2, 2010


Serre de la Madone

This week’s Photohunt theme is Lick. I almost did not play this week. This is another theme that I did find inspiring. I knew it would have to be an animal licking but to find one that would be interesting and something that I had not blogged about. And I finally found one.

This is one of the cats in the French garden Serre de la Madone in Menton France. This garden was created by Lawrence Johnston who also created the renown English Garden, Hidcote Manor. It was designed as his winter garden.

The garden design is a series of outdoor room terraced up a hillside. The sheltered rooms allowed him to plant a wide variety of unique exotic plants and shelter them from the harsh climate. At the center point is a rather formal set of water ponds and Italian statuary. From the pond area, you can glimpse the wild hillsides surrounding the garden.

It had a wonderful serene ambiance. There is no set way to approach and tour the garden. Instead you are encouraged to explore the various ways. There are various paths taking you to different belvederes of the hillside, rooms and country house. The garden was maintained but left to abandon after Johnston’s death in 1958. It was purchased by the city of Menton in 1999. It still has a wonderful and haunting feel of disrepair with crumbling stone work and seduction of the warm Riviera. Further information on the garden and location at Garden Visit website.

Here are some further photos of the ponds and terrace at the center of the garden.

Serre de la Madone

Serre de la Madone

Serre de la Madone

Serre de la Madone

Posted in Miscellaneous | Tagged France, Photohunt | 16 Replies

Happy 2010

Travels with George and Marta Posted on January 1, 2010 by MartaOctober 14, 2014

NewYears

Another fresh new year is here . . .
Another year to live!
To banish worry, doubt, and fear,
To love and laugh and give!

This bright new year is given me
To live each day with zest . . .
To daily grow and try to be
My highest and my best!

I have the opportunity
Once more to right some wrongs,
To pray for peace, to plant a tree,
And sing more joyful songs!

—– William Arthur Ward

Posted in Miscellaneous | 2 Replies

A Decade of Travel

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 31, 2009 by MartaDecember 31, 2009

Decade of Travel

We renewed our passports this year. Flipping though the pages, I realized I was holding a decade of travel in my hands. Looking back I saw many new places I had visited and dramatic change in how I planned and traveled.

We went to New Zealand in November 1999. Okay.. I know… that is the previous decade but I’m going to start with the New Zealand trip. It was the first trip that I really used the internet for planning. We found a lovely B&B in Auckland – the Great Ponsonby B&B. I exchanged several emails with the owner before reserving a room. Previously, we never made reservations and usually visited the tourism office as soon as we arrived. Even on this trip – we only reserved the first night. We found hotels the other nights by using the old traditional method of reading a travel guide book like The Rough Guide or visiting the local tourism office where they would book a room for us in the next city.

I got the idea of the trip from Fodor’s New Zealand guidebook where they had a section on gardens to visit. I used Yahoo and Google to research other gardens and discovered several sites devoted to gardens. I printed out the information and we had a wonderful trip wandering the gardens of the North Island. It was the dawning of the age of travel research on the web for me.

In 2000, I was dreaming of France. We visited the Maritime Alps above Nice on a trip in 1996. I had been working for two months in Den Haag Netherlands and used a Carlson Wagonlit travel agent in Den Haag to plan our trip. We looked at glossy travel brochures and selected the hotels and apartment in Corsica for them to book. We had a great time in France but the accommodations were not very good. It did not give me a good feeling about using travel agents. It was the last time I used travel agents to book our accommodations.

I was surfing the web looking for pictures and information on Parc Mercantour when I stumbled upon a Portland hiking company website, Mountain Hiking Holidays. They offered several hiking trips in Europe including one to the Maritime Alps. I really like their philosophy of staying in one town for several nights and doing day hikes. G did not want to go because he was busy at work but he encouraged me to go by myself. I was a little scared because I had never traveled solo internationally. But going with a group would be a perfect way to do my first solo international trip. I booked the trip via email and had a wonderful time. I gained a lot of confidence by doing the solo trip.

Later in 2000, I had an opportunity to do a solo business trip to Asia and Australia. Thank goodness I had traveled to France by myself a couple of months earlier. It was daunting enough trying to figure out how to get around in Tokyo. My first time in Asia which was very exciting. Tokyo seemed like a blur since I was only there two days but I had a great weekend in Singapore. I also visited Melbourne and used the internet to take a day tour of the wineries and research places to eat. I was starting to get the hang of using the internet for travel.

In 2001, we traveled for the time to Italy. We had seen “Stealing Beauty” and thought it would be a lot of fun to get a rental in Tuscany. I found Parker Company on the web. They had a great website that allowed me to see the location of the rental, wonderful pictures and good details on the rentals. But I wondered about renting from the Parker company and searched for reviews of the company. I discovered Slow Travel. I lurked for several months digging through the information about where to eat, supermarkets, where to park in Siena, and what to do in Chianti. What a treasure trove of information and a helpful, sharing community. I didn’t join the forum until we returned from our trip. I wanted to give back by sharing my experiences. I also found Judy the “Diva” at Divina Cucina website. I did not have time to take a class but it was wealth of information on food in Tuscany and Florence. We went shortly after 9/11. I was able to find information on what it was like to travel those first few weeks after the attack and we decided that we did not want to cancel our trip. I still have memories of reading the headlines everywhere we went.

2001 was also my 30th high school reunion and I attended for the first time. They planned it using Classmates and it sounded like a lot of fun. And it was. Many of us continue to keep in contact but now we use Facebook.

In 2002, I convinced George to go back to Italy and do a hiking trip with Mountain Hiking Holidays. Staying in one location for several days and doing day hikes was a fabulous way to travel. We had a great adventure climbing the via ferrata and craggy trails of the Dolomites. We moved on to Venice after the tour and met up with some good friends. I found an apartment using Slow Travel and it was perfect. I was getting the hang of traveling slowly.

2003 was a milestone birthday for G and I. He decided he wanted to challenge himself and climb Rainier. He wanted to wish me a happy birthday in July from the summit. Using the web, he booked with Rainier Mountaineering Guide Service and we started training. I was definitely sold on traveling slowly so I found a cabin to rent just outside of Mt. Rainier National Park. Rainier Summit Climb 2004 We invited his parents to join us while he did his climb. We also needed to document this achievement so we got our first digital camera. Later in 2003, we traveled for the first time to South America. We spent 3 weeks in Chile traveling from high in the altiplano with Barbara from Alto Andino Nature Tours. We saw some amazing and unusual plants in the high mountain plateaus. Next we flew down the long thin country to hike in the Lake District and on further to Patagonia. Another long time travel dream was full-filled when we hiked part of the W trail in Patagonia with Cascada Expediciones, another great tour company I found on the web. I started my blog to journal our travels on-line.

In 2004, it was my turn to summit a peak over 14,000. We used the internet to get our permits for climbing Mt Whitney. I started training even harder hiking almost every week. I also found the Whitney Portal store forum which provided lots of first hand details on on the climb. It was wealth of information on the best places to stay, eat, where to get water on the trail, the latest conditions and timings. We stayed at an apartment at Mammoth while we adjusted to the high altitude. I found lots of good trip reports on trails in the area that we used for our final conditioning. I also made two trips to New York City and met several people that I had gotten to know on the internet through Slow Travel.

In 2005, we took the plunge and visited South Africa. It was our first trip to Africa and a place we long had dreamed of visiting. G had grown succulents from South Africa for over 20 years. Okondeka waterhole I spent days researching floral areas in the Western Cape. Through the web, we found interesting places to explore, a wonderful guide to take us to Richtersveld, a chance to meet with conservationist and farmer Neil MacGregor, flower shows in small towns and wonderful homestays. We celebrated our anniversary at Bushmans Kloof and rented a self-catering cottage near Capetown. We couldn’t do a trip to Africa and not make a special effort to see animals. We decided to extend our trip to four weeks and spent the extra week in Namibia to visit Etosha. All the arrangement but air was done over the web.

In 2006, we struggled deciding where to go. The trip to Africa was so fantastic we had no ideas on where to go… until G realized that we had been to 4 of the 5 Mediterranean plant biomes. Western Australia was the only Mediterranean plant region that we had not visited. It was June but in short time with the aid of the internet, I worked up an itinerary of floral hotspots that we could visit in September. I used Google and Australia based Whereis maps to plot our driving routes and times. The Wildflower Society of Australia website gave me road names of places to visit and with a little bit of detective work – I found the roads on google maps. We found excellent self-catering apartments in the SW using the Western Australia tourism sites including a romantic Hilltop Studio in Margaret River.

In 2007, I decided it was my turn to full-fill a life long dream. On my flight back from France in 2000, I read an article in the Delta Sky Magazine on an intensive language school in Villefranche sur Mer France. I dreamed of spending 4 weeks in France at the school and I decided to do it. I spent 5 weeks solo in Villefranche sur Mer challenged but slowly learning French at Institut de Français. I loved it. G met me at the end of the classes and we spent a week in a rental in Menton and another week in a rental in the Luberon. It was also the first time that I traveled with a cellphone and ipod with speakers but still no laptop. I was moving towards being a connected traveler.

In 2008, the exchange rate and price of gas was astronomical. G’s niece arranged a family camping get together in Eastern California and invited us to join. We decided to do a road trip to California. I found the directions on the web to Costco gas along the way so we could save a bit from the $5.00 a gallon gas. We still managed to squeeze in a bit of slow travel. We had rentals in Mammoth which gave us the flexibility to do fun hikes and crash at the end of the day. We also rented a beautiful zen cottage near the beach in Fort Bragg where we relaxed and visited gardens.

Rafflesia In 2009, I was unemployed and starting my search for part time work. We wanted to visit somewhere warm in February but it also had to be not terribly expensive. Europe was too cold and dark. New Zealand and Australia was too expensive. I went back to planning using travel guide books and started to research Thailand. I went to the library to get some books on Thailand and also brought home a Lonely Planet guide book for Borneo. An exotic island that always seemed too remote, expensive and hard to get to. A few searches on Kayak airfare website and we learned that it was not expensive and not difficult to get to. Images on Google Earth showed us it would be easy to drive and a couple of search on Flickr showed us the modern cities and well developed hotels of Sabah and Sarawak. It was the first time I bought international air tickets on the web. Using email, it was easy to arrange for a car rental, a special 3 day trip into the dense jungle, hotels and even accommodations at National Parks. It wasn’t slow travel but it was very easy to do. The exotic land, food and wonderful people made it another special trip. We have now been to 6 of the 7 continents of the world.

But we were not done yet, one more trip. We grabbed a couple of low cost airfares and found a cute inexpensive studio on Oahu on the web and we were off to a week in Hawaii. I had a netbook and a cellphone so we were connected the whole trip. Time on the beach, trekking through the mud to jungle waterfalls, exploring lovely gardens, watching surfers tackle the monster waves and meeting up with an internet friend made for a lovely way to close out the decade of travel.

I wonder where the next decade will lead us? And what technological changes will take us there?

Posted in Memoirs | Tagged Memoirs | 7 Replies

Buttermilk Oatmeal Pancakes

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 27, 2009 by MartaDecember 27, 2009


Oatmeal Pancakes

Sunday pancakes are now a habit. I am enjoying trying different types and recipes. There was an interesting recipe recently in the New York Times for Oatmeal Pancakes. It looked very good but a little too healthy using whole wheat flour. We like lighter fluffy pancakes and it sounded a little too dense for our once a week treat.

I searched on the web for another recipe and came across Dee’s Oatmeal Pancakes from Simply Recipes. It sounded excellent but it would make a lot more than I wanted to for the two of us. So I searched a bit more and found Oatmeal Buttermilk Pancake from a newspaper in Canada that was very similar but easier to split in half. Both recipes used the technique of soaking the oatmeal overnight in buttermilk.

The pancakes were very oatmealy. The flavor and texture was rather nutty instead of fluffy cake like texture of regular buttermilk pancakes. G really liked them but they were a little dense for me. I also found them a little difficult to cook. The edges did not dry as much as a buttermilk pancakes and they were still a bit liquidy when I flipped them. I used an old-fashion oatmeal from Snoqualmie Falls Lodge. Next time I will try lighter oat such as Quakers Oatmeal.

Here are the portions I used:

Buttermilk Oatmeal Pancakes

Makes about 6-8 pancakes

1 cup large-flake rolled oats
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 Tbs granulated sugar
1/2 Tsp baking powder
1/2 Tsp baking soda
1 egg, beaten
1 Tbs butter, melted
1/4 tsp vanilla extract

Place the oats in a bowl, pour in the buttermilk and stir to combine. Cover, refrigerate and let stand overnight. In the morning, when ready to serve, place the flour, sugar, baking powder and baking soda in a second bowl and whisk to combine. Mix the eggs, butter, and vanilla into the oatmeal mixture. Mix the flour mixture into the oatmeal mixture until just combined.

Heat a large non-stick skillet over medium to medium-high heat. Lightly coat the surface with butter. Pour 1/4 – 1/3 cup batter into pan. Cook the pancakes until the surface becomes lightly speckled with bubbles. Flip the pancakes over and cook 2 to 3 minutes on the other side, or until they spring back when touched in the center. Serve cooked pancakes right away or keep warm in 200 F oven.

Posted in Cooking | Tagged Breakfast, Cooking | 4 Replies

Photohunt: Twelve

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 26, 2009 by MartaNovember 16, 2016


Villefranche Sur Mer

This week’s Photohunt Theme is Twelve. At first, I thought this might be hard until I started thinking about items that typically come in twelves. Eggs, months, days of Christmas… hours. I decided to go with 12 hours as seen on the face of a clock. I had several interesting clocks but decided to go with the Église Saint-Michel clock tower in Villefranche Sur Mer. Here are a few more shots of Villefranche sur Mer.


Villefranche Sur Mer

Villefranche Sur Mer

Villefranche Sur Mer

Posted in Miscellaneous | Tagged France, Photohunt | 10 Replies

Photohunt: Fast

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 19, 2009 by MartaOctober 14, 2014

Thomson's Gazelle
Thomson’s Gazelle

This week’s photohunt theme is fast. This was really hard for me because I take most of my photos when I have slowed down. A couple of ideas crossed my mind – a fast moving stream, women rollerskaters (did that already), surf on Oahu. But these did not feel right.

So I decided to go with pictures of some of the fastest animals on earth. First up – Thomson’s Gazelle. These sleek animals can run up to 50mph. Although slower than their predators such as a cheetah, they can often out last their predators. You’ll find them in large herds across the grasslands of Africa. We saw them in Etosha in Northern Namibia.

Wildebeest
Wildebeest or Gnu

Wildebeest

Next up is the Wildebeest. When you see these animals sauntering across the horizon or clumsily getting up from the field, you wonder how they survive. But they are also one of the faster animals clocking to speeds up to 50mph.

Black Faced Impala
Black Faced Impala

Last is the Black Faced Impala. These antelope are also fast runners at 45mph. These are so beautiful. I love the sleek color and beautiful horns. All these animals survival depend upon speed.

Have a great weekend.

Posted in Miscellaneous | Tagged Africa, Photohunt | 17 Replies

Photohunt: Undesirable

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 12, 2009 by MartaDecember 12, 2009


Durians
Durians

This week’s Photohunt theme is Undesirable. I’m in Hawaii this week so my thoughts are of warm and tropical places. Here is a picture of Durians that we saw in the market in Kota Kinabalu in Malaysia. Many people love the fruit but to others the smell makes the fruit ‘undesirable’. In fact in several places we found signs saying “No Durians”

Another item we saw in the markets that I found undesirable were sago worms. These are a delicacy but I decided to pass on them.

Have a great weekend.

Singgahsana Lodge
No Durians in the room

Sago worms
Sago Worms

Posted in Miscellaneous | Tagged Photohunt | 13 Replies

Oahu Windward Beaches

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 11, 2009 by MartaSeptember 27, 2017

Here are a few of our favorite beaches on the Windward side of Oahu.


Kailau Beach
Kailau Beach

Hukilau Beach
Hukilau Beach

Malaekahana Beach
Malaekahana Beach

Lanikai Beach
Lanikai Beach

We are returning tomorrow – Aloha for now from Paradise.

Posted in Hawaii | Tagged Hawaii, Oahu | 4 Replies

North Shore Food

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 10, 2009 by MartaSeptember 27, 2017

Romy's Shrimp

Yesterday was beach day. We spent most of the day at Kailau beach enjoying the water and wonderful temperatures. Last night we went to a Christmas concert in Honolulu that we read about in the paper. It was a benefit for Toys for Tots. It was a variety of artists including Jim Nabors, Amy Hanaialii Gilliom and our favorite for the night – Jake Shimabukuro. He was awesome on the ukelele. I promise I’ll do a beach post next.

Today we drove back up to the North Shore to go to the Waimea Valley Audubon Center. It is an excellent garden and it also has a nice waterfall.

But in addition to enjoying the plants – we made it a food day. I wanted try several unique items to Oahu. The first was Malasadas. These are a Portuguese sweet – balls of yeast dough are dropped in hot fat and then rolled in sugar. You can also get these filled with custard; plain, coconut or chocolate flavored. We just had to try them and the best place is Leonards. They are in Honolulu but fortunately they have a mobile truck that is parked in the Foodlands parking lot in Laie. We got a half-dozen filled with custard and then headed to the nearest beach for a messy but oooohhh soooo good breakfast treat. We had no problems putting three of them away in no time. We saved the other three for later.

After touring the garden, it was time for lunch. We wanted to try one of the shrimp trucks that are at Kahuku. Giovanni’s is the most well known but the Oahu guidebook suggested Romy’s. I had the garlic prawns and G had the sweet and extra spicy shrimp. Both were great. They raise the shrimp locally in ponds in the area. Next time I’m getting the shrimp instead of the prawns. The shrimp were so sweet. I ended up eating several of G’s spicy shrimp after finishing off my prawns. We were so glad they had a large sink to clean up after eating – They were messy!

It was time for dessert so we drove a little bit and pulled into Malaekahana Beach. It was a lovely curved beach overlooking a small island. We brought along the rest of the Malasadas and relaxed in the shade.

To finish the day, we headed back to Kailau to go to the farmers market. It had a nice selection of local produce. Lots of great looking lettuce, fruit, local cheese, honey and eggs. There were also an excellent selection of local plants and orchids. I had to pull G away.

I got to try a lot of fun local food and G had a wonderful time at the garden. Satisfying day in Paradise.


Leonard's Malasada Truck
Leonard’s Malasada Truck in Laie

Breakfast at the beach
Breakfast at the beach

Leonard's Malasadas
Leonard’s Malasadas

Romy's Shrimp
Romy’s Shrimps Menu

Romy's Shrimp
Sweet and Spicy Shrimp from Romy’s

Kailau Farmers Market
Kailau Farmers Market

Posted in Hawaii | Tagged Hawaii, Oahu | 5 Replies

Surfin’ at Waimea Bay – Eddie Aikau Competition

Travels with George and Marta Posted on December 8, 2009 by MartaSeptember 27, 2017


Surfers at Eddie Aikau

Eddie Would Go! It is the stuff of myths. Eddie Aikau is a legend on the North Shore both as a surfer and for giving his life to try to save his buddies after their ocean going canoe capsized. His story is inspiring and your can read about it at this link.

The Quicksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave International surf competition only happens when the waves are big enough on Waimea Bay. This big waves come in traditionally in early December fed by storms and weather systems. It has not been held for the past five years but we have been hearing about the monster waves predicted this El Nino year.

We listened to the news reports and they said Tuesday was a 95% go. The weather forecast was good so we decided to go for it. Girasoli had told us we needed to get there early and we saw the traffic reports. Big surf days are like snow days on the mainland – everyone calls in sick and heads for the beach.

We did not think we could get up at 5:00 so we set the clock for 5:30. It was going to be about a 35 minute drive to the North Shore. We got out just a bit before 6:30.

The dawn was lightened the sky as we cruised along the shoreline. A few waves had crashed over the road in one or two places. We passed the shrimp trucks and Ted’s Bakery before we started to see crowds. There is also a competition at the Pipeline so there were some crowds at the Pipeline – BUT nothing like what was coming up.

We were fortunate to be coming from the west instead of from Honolulu. The bumper to bumper crowds were amazing. We passed Waimea Bay which was lined with 3-4 people deep along the street and kept going looking for a place to park…and kept going…. and kept going….

I think we were almost 3 miles from the bay when we finally pulled off into a place to park. We were near Laniakea beach which is known for turtles. None today with the high waves. I was pretty pissed. I thought we could have parked closer on the other side but there was no way to turn around. Grumble… grumble… Off we went walking along the roadside trying to stay out of the way of cars.

G had read about a good vantage spot near a street on the side of the bay we were coming from. It mentioned the people bushwacked to the viewpoints. We were almost to the bay when I noticed a person heading off into the brush on the side and a small path. G and I looked at each other and said lets check it out. Just a short distance into the shrubs where some rocks over looking the bay. Several photographers had tripods setup with some massive lenses or video sets. Hmmm… this might not be too bad. We had a perfect view of waves as they curled and broke. Plus a place to sit. Along the road people were standing 3 and 4 deep. Winner. It made up for being pissed earlier.

We found a place to sit and made ourselves comfortable. The first surfers were being towed out by jet skis. The sun had not come up over the hill above us so we were still shaded and cool.

What huge waves! You could see the swells starting in the distance. The surfers would be waiting and then suddenly one or more would go. Some had good rides, others milder rides and several caught some pretty gnarly waves and wiped out. The NY Times had an early article on the competition.

We hung out for a couple of hours until we had enough of the sun and then headed back. It took about 45 minutes to walk to back to our car. It was even more crowded! G said it was like a surfer’s Woodstock.

We decided there was no way we would go back the way we came. The traffic was barely moving especially as people waited for parking. We left and headed back the opposite way through the middle of Oahu. We did make a stop in Haleiwa for a shave ice at Matsumoto. I got mine with azuki beans and lilioki syrup – yummm.. Perfect to cool us off after the long hot walk.

It was too early for lunch so we decided to head back. We grabbed a burger and did a little grocery shopping in Kailau. We returned to the studio and decided to crash the rest of the afternoon in. Perfect lazy afternoon in paradise.

Spectators at Eddie Aikau surf competition
Our spot off to the east of the bay – Near Iliohu Street

Eddie Aikau Surf Competition
Catching a huge wave

Surfers at Eddie Aikau
Finishing a ride

Traffic and Crowds for Surf competition
Heading back through the crowd and traffic to the car

Shave Ice
She’s happy now – Shave ice from Matsumoto in Haleiwa

Posted in Hawaii | Tagged Hawaii, Oahu | 7 Replies

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