Our luck the weather changed when we arrived. The first day was sunny but windy and very cold. The rain moved in and we have had rain off and on most of the days. It definitely makes it challenging walking on the narrow sidewalks and dodging each others umbrellas. The streets are not too slippery and fortunately, the motos take care not to splash.

November 10

We made our first trip on the Metro. We took the line from San Giovanni which is near our apartment to the Spanish Steps. We were headed to the Villa Borghese. We had reserved a ticket for 11 and gave ourselves an hour to get there. The Metro was still crowded even after 10am. Accelerate and stop – accelerate and stop. It took a bit to get my footing. After leaving the metro station, we wandered a bit in the park trying to find our way. I am always disoriented getting off the Metro.

With the help of some other lost Americans, we found our way and made our viewing time. I didn’t realize I would have to check my large purse/bag and forgot my glasses. E had to read all guide book aloud to me. I felt so helpless!

After the museum, we made our way to the Spanish Steps. We found a cafeteria recommended in Slow Eats, Pasticceria D’Angelo and it wasn’t too bad. I had pasta with ham, peas and cream and E had a composed salad. It fueled us for some serious window shopping. Gorgeous clothes along Via Condotti. Lots of sharp pointed toed boots. I just dont see how anyone can walk in those. I felt so dowdy with my stubby toe shoes and slightly high water slacks. The other style is some seriously flared pants. I do like those. Nice ones in the Max Mara.

We cruised back up the apartment. Along the way we stopped at the Trevi Fountain to throw a coin in the fountain. Now we will return to Rome. E also wanted to look for the Hotel Trevi. She visited Rome when she was 7 and she remembers her mother talking about how she would wake when the fountain turned off. We looked up and down the streets but could not find it. We had given up. I saw a sign to the Pasta Museum and headed to check it out. Around a corner suddenly we saw… Hotel Trevi! We found it.

Another long walk back to the apartment. We were tired. But got inspired after deciding to eat at Da Giggetto in the Jewish Quarter. We love the fried artichokes and we each had one as a starter. We split a fettucini with funghi. E had the tongue and I had the Saltimbocca. We split a chestnut pastry. After a nice Chianti, we were totally satisfied even with the long walk. Total cost 70 €.

November 11

Today, we took in the Pantheon and two churches near by. Santa Maria sopre Minerva and San Luigi dei Francesi with a gorgeous Carvaggio painting. It was raining so Piazza Navona was deserted. We had a quick lunch in Campo di Fiori at Hostaria Romanesea before discovering Roscioli on Via dei Giubbonari just off the Campo. We got a bottle of Querciabella Chianti, pesto, San Martino pasta and the most awesome smoked buffalo mozzerella. We also went to Il Fiorentino butcher shop which was also recommended by Arthur Schwartz. We got some veal. We didn’t get the T-Bone but another cut that looked like a spencer steak (rib).

We headed off and took time to tour the Cat Santuary in Torre Argentina. It was inspiring to hear the volunteers talked about the efforts they made to save the cats.

Time for dinner. Our veal and pesto is calling.