I love the activity in the old city. At sundown, I stroll along the cobble-stoned paths and alleys of the old town. The ochre, siena and white-wash colors of the walls blend together under the sodium lights to an amber glow. Dark shadows accent the corners.

Chairs and tables spill out onto the narrow paths. The murmurs drift around the corners along with the clink and clank of silverware as people dine. Laughter is mixed with the faint hum of the neon lights.

Salty marine air awakens my nose to the smells of dinner – garlic, saffron, fish, basil and wine. Along with dinner is the faint smell of musty age.